You don’t need to be in Portugal very long to understand that the country has an unapologetic sweet tooth. As you’ll quickly notice walking along the streets of any town or city, pastries are an integral part of Portuguese culture.
Although the nation’s bakers and pastry artists certainly suffer from no lack of imagination, there are a few delicacies which have worked their way into the fundamental fabric of Portuguese identity.
The most famous of them all? The pastel de nata.
What is the pastel de nata?
These much-beloved treats are egg tart pastries. The outside is crispy and flaky while the inside is super creamy and delicately sweet.
Although each and every region of Portugal, not to mention every individual baker, has their own ways of tweaking the original recipe, egg filling and flaky crust are the distinguishing characteristics.
What does the name mean?
The term pastéis de Nata is Portuguese for “cream pastries,” but the English equivalent would be better described as a custard or egg tart.
You’ll see several different iterations of the name, so it is good to know that pastéis is the plural form of the word for pastry. If you hear or see pastel de nata instead, it’s just referring to one pastry instead of several.
What is the origin of the pastel de nata?
The recipe for these delectable tarts dates over 300 years to a small civil parish located just West of Lisbon. Now considered to be part of the larger metropolitan city, Belém is home to the pastel de nata and is where you’re still able to sample one of the best today.
Pastéis de Nata were created by monks in the Jerónimos Monastery. This UNESCO World Heritage Site offers stunning Manueline and Renaissance architecture and is among one of the most popular tourist attractions in Portugal.
At the time the pastel de nata was invented, the nuns and monks used egg whites to starch their clothes, and the leftover egg yolks became a major ingredient in desserts. The monks began selling pastéis de nata when the need erupted for income to support the monastery.
When the monastery eventually closed in 1834, the recipe was sold to the eventual owners of the Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém, which opened in 1837 and is still the most popular place to buy them around Lisbon.
Where to try pastel de nata?
In truth, if you’re in Portugal, you’re never really more than a few steps away from a pastel de nata. That being said, if you’re looking for a recommendation or are on a quest to find the best pastel de nata, here are a few recommendations.
In Lisbon
You can’t talk about pastel de nata in Lisbon without mentioning the place where it all began. Otherwise known as Pastéis de Belém, this world-famous shop offers both take out and sit in services. Either way, expect a bit of a wait because there is always a line going out the door.
Manteigaria is another classic café offering pastel de nata in Lisbon. In fact, many locals claim this is their favourite.
Another popular option is the aptly named Nata cafés can be found all over Portugal, offering a franchise-friendly version that’s nevertheless incredibly tasty.
You don’t need to worry too much about coming across a place to find a great pastel de nata though, they are located on just about every street corner. In short, you’ll have no trouble finding this treat on the streets of Portugal’s capital.
In Porto
You can also find Manteigaria and Nata in Portugal’s second-largest city. Like Lisbon, Porto has no shortage of places to find reliably delicious pastel de nata.
You’ll see them proudly advertised across town, but if you’re looking for a solid recommendation, check out another city-wide favourite, Porto Natas D’Ouro.
In the Algarve
Pastelaria Beira Mar is a favourite in Faro and has been in the game for a long time. Depending on where you’re staying though, simply ask your host or a friendly local where they go for the best pastel de nata in town and they will surely be able to point you in the right direction
What is the traditional way to eat a pastel de nata?
Well, first of all, keep in mind that there really is no wrong way to enjoy this sweet treat. You can snack on a pastel de nata while exploring the city or enjoy it with a café (espresso coffee).
If you’re looking for a memorable experience in one of Lisbon’s most beautiful cafés, you should check out the Confeitaria Nacional. For an equally photo-worthy pastel de nata moment, order a few from one of the city’s many kiosks and enjoy while sitting at a miradouro (“viewpoint”).
Another little trick to remember is that you’ll usually find a shaker full of cinnamon on the counter. These are for you to use and some places, like Pastéis de Belém, will also have a shaker full of icing sugar as well. You can add as much or as little as you like, and although everyone has their own preference, a little of both is highly recommended.
In terms of what to sip while enjoying your pastel de nata, an espresso (called a bica in Lisbon or café in the rest of Portugal) is generally considered the perfect.
If you prefer a milkier coffee, particularly in the morning, try ordering a meia de leite or a galão.
How many calories are in a pastel de nata?
Alright, I myself would rather not think about such things, but for those of you watching your waistline, here’s how much damage a pastel de nata can do.
Although the number of calories in a pastel de nata really depends on the recipe, it’s typically somewhere between 200 and 300 cal per pastry or around 250 cal on average. That’s roughly equivalent to most candy bars, but, I would argue, provides much more enjoyment.
To burn off that kind of energy, you would need to run for around 30 minutes at about 7 kilometres per hour. Or just spend the day climbing up and down all the lovely hills that Lisbon has to offer.
Can I only find pastel de nata in Portugal?
Until very recently, it was rare to find pastel de nata outside of Portugal with the exception of former Portuguese colonies and places with large Portuguese communities.
For example, you can count on Little Portugal, in London, to have you covered in the pastel de nata department. In the United States, New Jersey also has a large Portuguese population.
Even if you’re far away from London or New York though, these days you can find pastel de nata in just about every major city around the world. That being said, I can’t guarantee that you’ll be getting an authentic experience if you’re eating a pastel on the other side of the globe.
Unless you’ve been to a Portuguese-owned bakery, there’s a good chance it wasn’t an accurate representation of the real thing.
Can I make my own pastel de nata?
Of course! Here is a great recipe from allrecipes.com that has the Portuguese stamp of approval.
Ingredients
For the Dough:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup cold water
1 stick high-quality unsalted butter, fully softened, divided
For the Sugar Syrup:
3/4 cup white sugar
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon water
1 cinnamon stick (optional)
Lemon, zested in large strips (optional)
For the Custard Base:
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/2 cups milk
6 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
Directions
1. Combine flour, salt, and cold water in a bowl. Mix with a wooden spoon until dough just comes together and pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Dough should be sticky; adjust with more flour or water.
2. Transfer dough onto a well-floured surface. Dust a little more flour over the top. Knead for a minute or two to form a circle. Cover and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Roll dough into a square about 1/8 inch thick, dusting with flour as necessary; dough should still be sticky.
Spread 1/3 of the butter over 2/3 of the square using a silicone spatula, leaving a 1/2 inch border. Flip the unbuttered side over the middle of the square and fold the opposite end over it like a letter. Straighten the edges as needed.
4. Turn dough with a bench scraper to unstick it from the counter; dust with flour. Flip and sprinkle more flour on top. Roll dough into a 1/8-inch-thick rectangle, carefully stretching edges as needed. Spread another 1/3 of the butter over 2/3 of the dough. Fold into thirds. Transfer onto a lined baking sheet and freeze until butter is slightly chilled for about 10 minutes.
5. Sprinkle dough with flour and roll into a square a little over 1/8 inch thick. Spread remaining butter over the dough, leaving a 1- to 1 1/2-inch border on the top edge. Dip your finger in water and lightly moisten the unbuttered edge. Roll dough into a log starting from the bottom edge. Dust with more flour and polish the ends as needed. Seal with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours, preferably overnight.
6. Combine sugar, 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon water, cinnamon, and lemon zest in a pot. Boil over medium heat, without stirring, until syrup reaches 210 to 215 degrees F (100 degrees C). Remove from heat.
7. Preheat oven 550 degrees F (288 degrees C). Grease a 12-cup muffin tin. Whisk flour, salt, and cold milk together very thoroughly in a cold pot. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until milk thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool for at least 10 minutes.
8. Whisk egg yolks into the cooled milk. Add the sugar syrup and vanilla extract. Mix until combined. Strain custard into a glass measuring cup.
9. Unwrap the dough and trim any uneven bits on the ends. Score log into 12 even pieces using a knife; cut through.
10. Place a piece of dough in each muffin cup. Dip your thumb lightly in some cold water. Press thumb into the centre of the swirl; push dough against the bottom and up the sides of the cup until it reaches least 1/8 inch past the top. Fill each cup 3/4 of the way with custard.
11. Bake in the preheated oven until the pastry is browned and bubbly, and the tops start to blister and caramelize about 12 minutes. Cool tarts briefly and serve warm.
Whether you decide to make your own or enjoy the fruits of someone else’s labour, be sure not to miss out on the king of Portuguese pastry. Enjoy!
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Megan Flottorp
I’m a Lisbon-based writer who loves talking culture, travel, and women’s sports. Born in Canada, I completed an MA in Humanities in Prague and a Journalism Diploma in Montreal. I’m always on the hunt for surprising stories and new ways to #resistapathy.
